Toners: 
Why Two Can Be Better Than One
11/6/13

Toners are finally in the spotlight, and with good reason. Many women I know skip this step, because the benefits of using a toner have long been unclear and often misunderstood. I consider toner a multipurpose product, from an extension of cleansing and removal of all cleanser, dead skin cells and makeup cleansers can leave behind (especially for ladies who wear foundation), to preparing skin to best accept treatments like serums and moisturizers. Many of today's toners take it a step further, from minimizing pores to fading spots and reducing shine, offering more benefits than ever before. The New York Times took notice of a few standouts, including one I'll be talking about here.  

I've always struggled choosing just the right toner, and settled until a mere month ago. Like most people, I have combination skin. My nose and chin can be oily while the rest of my face is normal/dry, drier during cooler months. My forehead and cheeks crave moisture, while I keep blotting papers around for when my nose and chin get shiny. I've easily used over a dozen different toners since college, and none met all my skin's needs. Many were too drying or harsh (astringent toners) and would even make my cheeks bright red from irritation. Others were too gentle, and didn't clean my pores as much as I like. After years of trial and error it finally occurred to me that I shouldn't force any one toner on my skin if it didn't meet all of my needs. So I selected a toner for my normal/dry areas and another for my normal/oily areas and gave the new regimen a whirl. 

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Since I've been using La Prairie as my primary skincare brand, I selected two toners from their lineup of four. First up was the Cellular Refining Lotion (blue) for my normal/dry areas and my neck. This alcohol-free toner is very gentle and leaves my skin soft and refreshed, ready for serum and moisturizer both morning and night. It's very lightly fragranced, and manages to be both gentle and effective. It has a water-like consistency and is easily applied with a cotton round. I highly recommend Swisspers, which are inexpensive and gentle. From La Prairie:

• Gently tones and refreshes the skin
• Soothes the skin while it helps minimize pores
• Helps retexturize and smooth the skin
• Rinses away final traces of makeup and impurities that may remain after cleansing

Next was the new and popular Cellular Oil Control Tonic (green) for my nose and chin which tend to be on the oily side. This product has earned raves from W to the New York Times, and I was very excited to try this unique "tonic." The consistency took me by surprise, as it's somewhat gel-like yet can be applied with cotton rounds. It took a day or so to get the hang of how much to apply since it's so different from any toner I've ever used. Once I got into the swing of things, I noticed results from the very first day. I no longer reach for blotting papers several times a day, and I actually rid my chin of the pesky pimple that plagues me once a month. This toner is also alcohol-free and incredibly gentle and soothing while eliminating shine. From La Prairie:

Treats major signs of aging and imperfections while controlling excess oil and shine.

Balances oil and moisture content with smart technology.

Refines the skin’s surface, fades imperfections and evens skin tone while increasing overall luminosity.

Diffuses visible light to reduce the appearance of fine lines and imperfections.

After 21 days of continued use, shown to be as effective as 4% glycolic acid.

How cool is that?! While I'm writing about toners I'm currently using, I've learned to treat my skin's specific needs, and not force one toner or product on my entire face. This idea will work with many other brands that offer options for your skin's needs. Regardless of price, using toners that are suited for your skin's varying needs makes a tremendous difference. I plan to use a couple more reasonably-priced toners soon, as these are not only ridiculously expensive, but are packaged in huge glass bottles - not ideal for travel or clumsy people like myself. 

My verdict? I'll never use a single toner again, unless my skin changes with (gasp) age. While I love the options I've listed here, the idea will work with most brands so don't let these specific price tags scare you! Enjoy the benefits you'll reap from this small change in your regimen, and let me know your results!

La Prairie Cellular Refining Lotion is $95 for an 8.4 oz. bottle. 
La Prairie Oil Control Tonic is $135 for an 8.4 oz. bottle. 

Available at Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Saks.

La Prairie
Skin Caviar Luxe Cream
9/26/13

A longtime cult favorite, this luxury moisturizer graces the vanities of everyone from celebrities to skincare fanatics, and the Skin Caviar line remains beloved by many, with the Skin Caviar Luxe Cream having recently celebrated 25 years. My first experience with La Prairie was due to my generous and well-heeled sister, who'd come out to Portland for a visit after I'd just moved west and landed my first job as a Jr. Designer at adidas in 1999. I lived on ramen and PB&J back then, so her visits were always a welcome treat. We found ourselves at Saks one afternoon, and I found myself wanting everything on the La Prairie counter. She took direct aim, had the saleswoman gather up her bounty of beauty purchases, including my first La Prairie product. I applied that eye cream as though it were the last jar on earth; sparingly and with great care. I remember how hard it was to go back to anything else after such a luxurious product. Warning: this product has the same effect. 

As my career progressed I started using Crème de la Mer, which was the holy grail of moisturizers to me. I still adore that cream, and use it frequently during cooler weather. That said, I recently fully reacquainted myself with the magic that is La Prairie and can't imagine giving up my Skin Caviar Luxe Cream. From the classic blue jar and silver top to the embossed silver spoon, no expense was spared on packaging. Once inside you'll find one of the richest, most luxurious creams on the market. No, it doesn't smell like caviar or fish. It smells quite pleasant, with a delicate scent that mostly dissipates after application.

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The texture is creamy and thick, with a little going a long way. This isn't for those seeking a matte look, but creates a perfect and natural dewy glow. It screams healthy skin, which I love. The amount shown above on the spoon covers my face, neck and décolleté. Here are key benefits, directly from La Prairie:

• Drenches the skin with intensive moisture and nourishment

• Delivers concentrated firming agents to help stimulate collagen production

• Reinforces the skin’s vitality and enhances its natural anti-fatigue factor

• Smoothes and retexturizes skin’s surface with targeted Alpha Hydroxy Acid exfoliation

Since Caviar Extract is rich in protein, it transforms the texture of skin while providing serious hydration and making skin feel incredibly smooth and silky. I tried samples of this cream for a week prior to making my first purchase, and I couldn't stop touching my face and neck. Nothing had ever radically and instantaneously improved the texture of my skin the way this cream managed to. Have I mentioned the firming and improved skin elasticity? Come morning, my skin was radiant, taut and the softest it had ever been. After a single week of samples, there was no going back. My skin can be a gnarly mix of sensitive, allergy-prone and combination, and I've had nothing but positive experiences with this cream as well as other Skin Caviar products. Hurray! Since the cream is so rich, I've been using it nightly after toner and serum (and Cellular Power Infusion every three months, which deserves an entirely separate post). I clean the metal spoon with toner after use, and air dry. 

My verdict? Yes, this cult luxury cream is a major splurge. But given how little you use each application and the miraculous, immediate positive results...I can't imagine being without it. Pick up a sample at your local La Prairie counter inside upscale department stores. You won't regret it. I promise. 

La Prairie Skin Caviar Luxe Cream is $410 for a 1.7 oz jar. 

Available at Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Bergdorf Goodman. 

Valmont Priority Cream
8/14/13

One of my favorite things is discovering a skincare brand I've never seen or heard of before. Barneys has been letting me down lately with "hype" brands that really only have one or two good products. I stumbled upon Valmont during a broad search for soothing and healing creams and masks on Nordstrom online (not available in-store) and through my dermatologist. I'd recently discovered some gems from Chantecaille, and was excited when I began perusing Valmont's offerings. A Swiss brand with a heritage rooted in spa-like skincare and healing, this family-owned business seamlessly blends Switzerland's natural resources with research and technology. From the company's website:

"A constant innovator, the company draws inspiration from latest cosmetic cellular findings to offer utmost anti-aging products with visible and long lasting efficacy. Patented Triple DNA, liposomed RNA and DNA, Glacial Spring Water and pure plant extracts are the key ingredients used for their unequalled hydration, regeneration and cellular reactivation properties."

What attracted me most were the hydration, regeneration and cellular reactivation properties, and that the brand seeks to constantly innovate. This is important, because cell regeneration isn't exactly an easy thing to accomplish. I want healing properties in my skincare without sacrificing anti-aging benefits. Sure, La Mer is in the game and I use and love them, but Valmont is a welcome addition. 

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I've needed highly healing and calming skincare as of late. The Chantecaille Jasmine Lily Healing Mask falls into this category, as will upcoming posts. My dermatologist highly recommends Valmont, which upped the trust factor. Since Valmont is literally only sold at a handful of spas in the U.S., through dermatologists and Nordstrom online, I was able to procure a bunch of samples from my dermatologist, as well as the lead aesthetician at the flagship Nordstrom Spa in Seattle. This helped greatly, as some of the price points (like La Mer) are quite high. 

I'd received samples of the Priority Cream on a day my face and other areas of my skin felt and looked like they was on fire, and I was in extreme discomfort. We're talking walking lobster and incredibly hot to touch. I cleansed with the White Falls Cleansing Emulsion, followed by the Vital Falls Toner, and finished by applying the Priority Cream to my face and other red and irritated skin. A little bit went a long way, as each tiny sample lasted three days. My face and body cooled immediately, and felt instantly soothed and hydrated. The consistency is lovely, managing to be light yet very hydrating. It has a very light scent, thats not at all "perfumy." The booklet I received with the samples explained that the cream immediately goes to work on microcirculation, which helps regulate (not hide) redness and inflammation. It was the first time my skin felt comfortable in over a week, aside from when I used the Chantecaille mask. But I can't wear a mask all the time, and this cream was a godsend. I immediately hopped onto nordstrom.com, and ordered several items I'd fallen in love with. If I had to choose one item, this would have been it. That's saying a lot, as everything I tried was amazing. 

My verdict? While I normally have combination skin, I've fallen into the sensitive skin category where I'll remain for awhile. For those of you with sensitive skin, rosacea, redness, radiation exposure, allergies, or sunburned skin, this is a fantastic cream. I simply can't say enough good things about it. Expect more Valmont posts soon!

Valmont Priority Cream is $195 for a 1.6 oz. jar. 

Available at Nordstrom (online only), through your dermatologist and Nordstrom spas throughout the U.S. Other spas may carry Valmont, but I'd only trust an authorized Nordstrom or Valmont Spas around the world. 

Note: there is an amazing Valmont Spa at the Plaza Athénée Hotel for those in the NYC area.

Chantecaille Healing Mask

Chantecaille
Jasmine and Lily Healing Mask
8/5/13

I became a Chantecaille fan after falling in love with their Retinol Intense Cream. I still can't get over how incredibly gentle that cream is, and had high hopes for the rest of their line. I knew any brand who managed to make a gentle and soothing Retinol cream was capable of other skincare magic. I decided to purchase the Chantecaille Anniversary Set from Nordstrom to get a better feel for their full product range, from eye creams to serums and masks. I'd read raves about their Jasmine and Lily Healing Mask, and was thrilled that a deluxe sample was included in the set. 

From the moment I began applying the mask, my skin felt cool and instantly soothed. It has a very light and pleasant scent, with rosewater as the product's base. Directions indicate to apply a generous layer twice a week for 10-20 minutes, or leave the mask on overnight as a nighttime moisturizer. Love that! I'd only left it on for about 20 minutes the first night, but was amazed how soft and bright my skin looked the following morning. I immediately ordered a full-size jar. 

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My new mask arrived last week in Chantecaille's very zen and high-end glass jar with a heavy lid that feels like polished stone. Because I wasn't already psyched enough about this product? Wow. You know how much I appreciate good design. Coincidentally, my skin was rather angry the day of the mask's arrival; my cheeks were super flushed and hot to the touch, and I was developing my monthly pimple on my chin. I washed my face, toned with my Clarins toner (alcohol-free), and generously applied the mask to my face of fire. Within minutes, the same cooling and soothing properties took effect. I decided to leave the mask on for a full hour, and as I rinsed it off I noticed that the redness and irritation had vanished, and my skin felt soft and smooth. Even my emerging monthly pimple seemed to be retreating. For those with roseacea, Chantecaille lists this as an incredibly effective treatment for daily use. Also noted for relieving sun and windburned skin, jet-lagged skin, and pretty much any form of irritation. 

Last night I decided to use the mask as my nightly moisturizer since my skin has been so irritated lately. Allergies, medications, and any sort of imbalance can do a number on me and my poor skin. I sleep on a silk pillowcase so I don't get creases on my eye area, and because silk also helps your skin and hair retain moisture. I'm happy to report that I awoke without a sign of irritation and with outstanding hydration. I don't foresee myself being without my healing mask anytime soon. 

My verdict? This dual-purpose healing mask and calming night cream is like nothing I've ever tried in any price range. Applying a generous layer doesn't actually take long and uses much less product than I originally thought, making it last at least a month if used twice a week. Worth every penny, and then some. My skin loves this as both a mask and a calming night cream. Win/win. 

Chantecaille Jasmine and Lily Healing Mask is $79 for a 1.7 oz. jar. 

Available at Neiman Marcus, Barneys, & Bergdorf Goodman. 

Blotting Paper

Tatcha Original Aburatorigami
Japanese Beauty Paper

I've been a fan of Tatcha's Rice Enzyme Powders for a couple of months, and was recently surprised to see their blotting papers online at places like Sephora. This struck me as interesting, considering they quite literally only sell their skincare products in the U.S. at Barneys and on their own website. I think this was a fantastic choice for the brand to introduce themselves to a larger market. 

I've been using blotting papers for many years, with varied results. Sephora's papers were literally like rubber, made from some sort of blue plastic material in a poorly-constructed black package. Then I tried Shiseido's, but I can't stand blotting papers with powder. I was beginning to feel like I'd have to settle, and I did for many years on Sephora's Blotting Papers. While doing some research for this post, I was shocked to see that Sephora now offers three options, including a Shimmer Sheet Set (doesn't that defeat the purpose?), and two other types of sheets with "treatment" ingredients, such as tea tree oil. I don't know about you, but all I ask for in a blotting sheets is to remove any excess shine from my face. Then I found Tatcha's. 

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The Original Aburatorigami Beauty Papers were included with Tatcha's Sampler Set, which I'd purchased to get the full experience of their line. Like all their other products, the packaging design is beautiful and high quality. Made solely of Abaca leaf and gold, these incredibly thin and nearly translucent papers are a far cry from all the other blotting papers out there. I love a good story, and they deliver. These all-natural papers are powder free, fragrance free, and handmade. 

Why blotting papers? I've yet to meet a woman who enjoys a shiny face. If you wear foundation, primer, powder, or any other makeup on your face, blotting with a regular tissue will steal or mess up your makeup, moisturizer, and can leave fibers behind. Adding more powder to cover the shine creates an uneven look and can potentially clog your pores. These blotting papers remove shine while leaving your makeup intact, and without stealing your moisturizer. I don't wear any makeup aside from on my eyes and lips (and nails, of course), but I prefer my moisturizer remain on my face while removing any shine or oiliness in my t-zone. 

Using these papers is incredibly simple. Simply remove a single sheet from the cool envelope package and gently dab on any shiny areas. You can use both sides of the sheet, and discard with a good conscience since they're biodegradable. Tatcha also makes Evening Aburatorigami Beauty Papers, which are essentially smaller and darker - perfect for a clutch. 

My verdict? I can't imagine returning to the archaic blotting papers I once used, and nothing has worked as well or looked as good as Tatcha. Enjoy a shine-free summer!

- Original Aburatorigami Japanese Beauty Papers are $15 for 30 sheets. 
- Evening Aburatorigami Japanese Beauty Papers are $15 for 40 sheets.
- Aburatorigami Japanese Beauty Papers Duo is $19 for both products! Total steal.

Available at Tatcha online & Sephora. Note: the duo is only available at Sephora. 

Tatcha
Deep Rice Enzyme Powder
6/21/13

Tatcha is one of the most interesting beauty brands I've experienced since La Mer and their 'Miracle Broth.' Don't get me wrong; these brands couldn't be more different. Tatcha's founder Victoria Tsai was born into beauty, with a family who sold traditional Asian herbal skincare treatments in the family's beauty boutique. She spent most of her career consulting for other brands, and ended up founding Tatcha after studying the beauty habits of both modern and traditional geisha. Enter modern science and Victoria's beauty biz savvy, and Tatcha was born. 

I like to peruse Barneys skincare offerings, as they tend to be the most progressive in the industry (I can thank them for introducing me to Sunday Riley, Chantecaille, Koh Gen Do, RéVive and many others). I'd also read a fair amount from trusted sources including fellow beauty addicts, the NY Times, Vogue, Bazaar, Vanity Fair, etc. but didn't know where to start. I don't believe in using a single brand's entire line, and prefer to mix and match. Fortunately, Tatcha offers 'The Tacha Samper Set,' which contains a two week supply of the main line. I also impulsively ordered the eye cream and lip balm, which aren't included in the sample set (review to follow). I was so excited when my package arrived, as I'd never used a line like this. They definitely wooed me with their design aesthetic. The packaging is absolutely gorgeous. As an Art Director, I can tell you that everything from the paper stock to the booklet and loose leaf product info cards are premium. Even the gold foiled logo is embossed on the rich purple patterned envelope. I also received handwritten notes with each shipment. Everything feels special and personal. It's a true brand experience, which I fully enjoy. 

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The first step is the Camellia Cleansing Oil. This is for makeup removal or extra hydration. I tried it twice and determined I didn't need it. It was soothing, though, and a necessary first step if you wear foundation, powder, BB creams, etc. The second step is the product I'm talking about today- the Deep Rice Enzyme Powder. The Sampler Set came with Gentle, Classic, and Deep enzyme powders. Instructions indicate to pour about 1/2 a tsp. of the enzyme powder onto wet hands, rub together until a foam forms, and massage onto face in a gentle, circular motion for 30 seconds to one minute. The foam is super gentle, and exfoliates with enzymes rather than a harshly textured exfoliating cleanser. My face literally felt squeaky clean. It's vastly different from any cleansing ritual I've ever tried, of which there are many. There are no synthetic fragrances, and it actually seems unscented. I encourage you to visit Tatcha's site to review their natural, high quality ingredients. There were other products in The Sampler, but this is the only one that truly blew me away. Although I could have ordered the Classic, I went with the Deep Enzyme Powder because its so darn gentle. It's been nearly three weeks including two with The Sampler, and my skin looks amazing. It's incredibly soft and has a new radiance and glow.

The packaging for the product is brilliant in its simplicity. After unscrewing the top, there's a slide-to-lock closure. Once you slide it open, a small opening controls the amount of product that is dispensed, so you're not faced with a handful of powder that would get wasted. Love it. There's also a travel set that comes with fourteen enzyme powder packets. For longer trips, I'd trust the container since it's basically double-sealed with the lid screwed on. 

My verdict? I fell head over heels for the Deep Rice Enzyme Powder. No exfoliating cleanser is as gentle and effective. Look to the skin of the geisha! This time-tested method of skin cleansing has won me over. More to come on other Tatcha products soon. 

- Tatcha Deep Rice Enzyme Powder is $65 for a 2.1 oz. jar. 

- Tatcha Deep Rice Enzyme Powder & Travel Set Duo is $78 for the 2.1 oz. jar & 14 packets

Available at Tatcha and Barneys. 

Perricone MD Face Finishing Moisturizer 
6/19/13

If you haven't tried any Perricone MD products, chances are you've heard of a few. I wrote a post about his magical Blue Plasma, and had high hopes for the other products. I'm currently using some other Perricone MD goodies, but today I'm sharing my experience with the Face Finishing Moisturizer or 'FFM' as brand loyalists refer to it. 

The Perricone Philosophy is costly and rigid, as we're not simply talking skincare here. There's an anti-inflammatory diet component, nutritional supplements, and skincare, of course. The diet resembles the Mediterranean diet with minor tweaks. The supplements (which he sells) run about $150 a month. Then there's the Clinical Skincare component. Needless to say, I don't subscribe to the full lifestyle. A girl needs a filet mignon, some wine, and dessert. I just jump right to the skincare component, which is focused on anti-aging products. I do take non-Perricone vitamins C, D, E, a multi-vitamin, and Nordic Naturals Omega 3-6-9. 

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While much of the line offers products for more mature skin or severe premature aging (deep-set wrinkles, sagging necklines, etc), there are several targeted at women in our 30's and early 40's with first signs of aging. That said, this product falls into that category - much like Blue Plasma and his pore treatments. The anti-aging ingredients include Alpha Lipoic Acid, DMAE, and Vitamin C Ester. 

This moisturizer offers the usual anti-aging promises, from decreased fine lines to increased radiance and hydration, and minimized pores. It's also listed as having a "delicate rose scent." I'd describe the scent as "fishy with a hint of rose." We need to accept that Perricone products are "fishy," and tolerate it in the best products. It actually fades after an hour or so. Unfortunately, this moisturizer doesn't agree with my skin. For whatever reason, the moisturizer begins to ball up and flake off which has only happened to me with 2 other products (non-Perricone eye creams). I have no idea what causes this, but it's really a bummer. It may be interacting with my Lancôme Visionnaire serum which I refuse to give up. I could tolerate the fishy/rose scent if the product would stay on! That said, your skin may take better to this product. I like that it comes with a spoon to keep the jar germ-free, and the price is reasonable in comparison to similar products. I've spoken with Dr. Perricone on several occasions and he's always happy to refund or exchange products. It's a shame, because I loved that it's lightweight, non-greasy, and the texture is cooling and soft. Very pleasant to apply. 

My verdict? Definitely a case of personal misfortune. I recommend picking up samples and giving it a try, as I believe this problem is potentially related to my other products. Perricone rocks it out with other products, so don't let my experience turn you away. I can barely remember life before Blue Plasma, and the other Perricone products I'm trying right now work, without issue. Note: all but two Perricone products are paraben-free, including those mentioned in this post. 

Perricone MD Face Finishing Mosturizer is $69 for a 2 oz. jar. 

Sephora offers a 4 oz. jar for $99.

Available at Perricone MD, Nordstrom, & Sephora.