Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Toners: 
Why Two Can Be Better Than One
11/6/13

Toners are finally in the spotlight, and with good reason. Many women I know skip this step, because the benefits of using a toner have long been unclear and often misunderstood. I consider toner a multipurpose product, from an extension of cleansing and removal of all cleanser, dead skin cells and makeup cleansers can leave behind (especially for ladies who wear foundation), to preparing skin to best accept treatments like serums and moisturizers. Many of today's toners take it a step further, from minimizing pores to fading spots and reducing shine, offering more benefits than ever before. The New York Times took notice of a few standouts, including one I'll be talking about here.  


I've always struggled choosing just the right toner, and settled until a mere month ago. Like most people, I have combination skin. My nose and chin can be oily while the rest of my face is normal/dry, drier during cooler months. My forehead and cheeks crave moisture, while I keep blotting papers around for when my nose and chin get shiny. I've easily used over a dozen different toners since college, and none met all my skin's needs. Many were too drying or harsh (astringent toners) and would even make my cheeks bright red from irritation. Others were too gentle, and didn't clean my pores as much as I like. After years of trial and error it finally occurred to me that I shouldn't force any one toner on my skin if it didn't meet all of my needs. So I selected a toner for my normal/dry areas and another for my normal/oily areas and gave the new regimen a whirl. 



(click photo to enlarge)

Since I've been using La Prairie as my primary skincare brand, I selected two toners from their lineup of four. First up was the Cellular Refining Lotion (blue) for my normal/dry areas and my neck. This alcohol-free toner is very gentle and leaves my skin soft and refreshed, ready for serum and moisturizer both morning and night. It's very lightly fragranced, and manages to be both gentle and effective. It has a water-like consistency and is easily applied with a cotton round. I highly recommend Swisspers, which are inexpensive and gentle. From La Prairie:
  • Gently tones and refreshes the skin
  • Soothes the skin while it helps minimize pores
  • Helps retexturize and smooth the skin
  • Rinses away final traces of makeup and impurities that may remain after cleansing
Next was the new and popular Cellular Oil Control Tonic (green) for my nose and chin which tend to be on the oily side. This product has earned raves from W to the New York Times, and I was very excited to try this unique "tonic." The consistency took me by surprise, as it's somewhat gel-like yet can be applied with cotton rounds. It took a day or so to get the hang of how much to apply since it's so different from any toner I've ever used. Once I got into the swing of things, I noticed results from the very first day. I no longer reach for blotting papers several times a day, and I actually rid my chin of the pesky pimple that plagues me once a month. This toner is also alcohol-free and incredibly gentle and soothing while eliminating shine. From La Prairie:

  • Treats major signs of aging and imperfections while controlling excess oil and shine.
  • Balances oil and moisture content with smart technology.
  • Refines the skin’s surface, fades imperfections and evens skin tone while increasing overall luminosity.
  • Diffuses visible light to reduce the appearance of fine lines and imperfections.
  • After 21 days of continued use, shown to be as effective as 4% glycolic acid.
  • How cool is that?! While I'm writing about toners I'm currently using, I've learned to treat my skin's specific needs, and not force one toner or product on my entire face. This idea will work with many other brands that offer options for your skin's needs. Regardless of price, using toners that are suited for your skin's varying needs makes a tremendous difference. I plan to use a couple more reasonably-priced toners soon, as these are not only ridiculously expensive, but are packaged in huge glass bottles - not ideal for travel or clumsy people like myself. 

    My verdict? I'll never use a single toner again, unless my skin changes with (gasp) age. While I love the options I've listed here, the idea will work with most brands so don't let these specific price tags scare you! Enjoy the benefits you'll reap from this small change in your regimen, and let me know your results!

    La Prairie Cellular Refining Lotion is $95 for an 8.4 oz. bottle
    La Prairie Oil Control Tonic is $135 for an 8.4 oz. bottle

    Available at Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Saks.

    Monday, November 4, 2013

    Foaming Cleansers
    11/4/13

    The evolution of cleansers isn't surprising, as consumers expect a lot from products in an over saturated market. I use foaming cleansers on a twice-daily basis, with an exfoliant (review soon) three mornings a week after cleansing. I used cleansing milks and lotions for a long time, blindly assuming they were the most gentle. That said, I never felt like they got my face and neck completely clean - and I don't even wear foundation. I relied on toner to thoroughly clean any residue or film after cleansing. Now I use toner mainly to prepare my skin for treatments like serums and moisturizers. I've compared three different foaming cleansers at varying price points to find the best. I used each cleanser for a full month to test their efficacy, and I chose three brands whose products I use, since they've already established quality and trust. 


    First up was Chantecailleand I had high expectations given how many of their products I use and love. Chantecaille's Rice and Geranium Foaming Cleanser contains rice bran for gentle exfoliation, while geranium acts as an antibacterial. Seaweed regulates sebum production while soybean, green tea and olive leaves are supposed to naturally protect the skin from free radicals. I found that it only took a dime-sized amount to create a nice foaming lather when I rubbed my hands together and applied to a wet face. It does take awhile to fully rinse off, and my skin never felt fully "rinsed." That bugs me. It has the consistency of rice pudding, and it's hard to imagine that is sufficient exfoliation on its own. During that month I also used their Fruit & Flower Acids Mask for proper exfoliation. As far as any scent, there was none to speak of even though they mention a citrus scent. Hm. 



    left to right: Chantecaille, La Prairie and NARS
    (click photo to enlarge)

    Next up was La Prairie, aka my holy grail of skincare at present. La Prairie's Foam Cleanser is true to its name. This water-activated foam in their signature light pink hue is mousse-like in texture until combined with water. It can range from near creamy to super foamy depending on how much water you mix it with. Like Chantecaille, I only need about a dime-sized amount to reach a full lather on my wet face. What I really like about this cleanser is that it doesn't take forever to rinse off, and my skin feels clean without feeling stripped of moisture. The fragrance is quite mild and pleasant. This is strictly a foaming cleanser without an exfoliation element, as La Prairie has two different products meant solely for exfoliation post cleansing. I've found this system incredibly effective, as I prefer a deep exfoliation a few times a week rather than a light daily exfoliation. 

    Last but not least was NARS Purifying Foam Cleanser. NARSskin launched last year, completely revamping the brand's skincare line. NARSskin products are grounded in simplicity and are paraben-free, gluten-free, oil-free, alcohol-free and synthetic fragrance free. This cleanser gently exfoliates with botanical exfoliating spheres, while rose and peony extracts soothe skin and reduce shine. Like Chantecaille and La Prairie, a dime-sized amount lathers up a lovely foam which has a refreshing, natural orange scent and rinses off fairly easily. Formulated to prepare the face for makeup, this is a fantastic choice for women who wear foundation. 


    My verdict? I bought full-sized bottles of both La Prairie and NARS, and passed on the Chantecaille cleanser. La Prairie is my runaway favorite, in conjunction with their Cellular Mineral Face Exfoliator. NARS is fantastic for travel when I want one product that does it all. Chantecaille missed the mark, but I still love many of their other products. 

    La Prairie Foam Cleanser is $75 for a 4.2 oz. tube
    NARS Purifying Foam Cleanser is $29 for a 4.9 oz. tube
    Chantecaille Rice and Geranium Foaming Cleanser is $60 for a 2.46 oz. tube

    All available at Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Saks